遊走司馬庫斯 以友善環境的旅遊消費 與部落共榮


 本報2013年10月16日新竹訊,特約記者廖靜蕙報導

新竹縣尖石鄉司馬庫斯部落,以維護美麗的景色,發展旅遊產業,為部落帶來經濟收入。去(2012)年12月,一場重大交通事故,卻重挫部落旅遊產業,影響族人生計。為了恢復遊客信心,部落與七星保育基金會、花旗基金會合作推動「部落生態旅遊」,以對環境負責的旅遊行為,號召喜愛自然生態、部落文化,共赴司馬庫斯享受自然美景。

 去年12月的交通事故,影響司馬庫斯旅遊產業,雖然此事與部落無關,訂房率卻減少一半以上。縣政府以及公路總局為此展開檢討並提出因應策略,包括錯開管制站到部落之間,往返部落的會車機會,以及增加護欄。

經過這次事件,部落檢討對策,在部落人力有限的條件下,調整步伐,盡量照顧到每個遊客,為此也考慮降低遊客數量以提高服務品質,規劃設計一些能留住遊客住宿、用餐的行程。七星保育基金會也遠從花蓮邀請阿美創意美食家陳耀宗上山指導烹飪技術;客房則維持環保旅館的要求外,增添舒適度。

 旅遊行程,除了知名的巨木群步道,也開放保育有成的「Koraw自然生態公園」導覽行程;而部落幾個深具傳統意義的景點,更值得旅人走讀。

七星基金會表示,有一些遊客只是到部落逛逛,自己帶便當,甚至攜帶鍋碗瓢盆到此野炊,對部落並無幫助,部落還得整理旅人留下來的垃圾,增加負擔。

雖然族人自主維護巨木群步道以及周邊設備清潔,卻仍無法令依據,酌收使用者清潔費,因此,唯一能支持、回饋部落產業的方式,就是向部落消費,食、宿在部落以及買當地紀念品。 司馬庫斯之路

台灣的秋季是一年中最適合旅遊的季節。不過上部落的車程,即使從新竹火車站出發,都還需要3個小時的時間。經過去年交通事故後,往司馬庫斯的道路,下午才能進入管制站,上午則讓出部落的車輛通行。

台灣低海拔郊區常見的山芙蓉,8至10月正值花季,沿途都可欣賞它美麗的風采。由於清晨綻開,初為白色,再由白轉為粉紅色,到了傍晚變成紅色後閉合、凋謝,一日3變,又有三醉芙蓉之稱。

除了秋天沿途山芙蓉陪伴,3月裡部落的山櫻花更是燦爛美麗,原生種的霧社山櫻花,在族人的照顧下,按照時期開花,形成季節特色。 像司馬庫斯一樣思考

關於司馬庫斯地名的說法,據說是為了紀念一位名為 Mangus(馬庫斯)的祖先,而Smangus(司馬庫斯)則是對於這位祖先的尊稱。

進入到部落,由族人迎接來到部落的信仰中心──司馬庫斯教會,頭目及牧師在此為旅人進行祈福儀式。水在泰雅族具有祝福的意思,灑水是為了洗滌旅途中的疲憊以及去除不好的東西。

在頭目的勉勵接納下,旅人得以和族人一樣,享受部落生活。

過去泰雅族有Uutux、Gaga的信仰,但現在司馬庫斯主要的信仰是基督教。教會內以100把小米穗布置著十字架,象徵族人生活深深與信仰結合。

居住在此的族人,根據頭目提供的數字,有28戶人家、176.5人,連腹中的胎兒也算。

部落內一所擁有兩間教室的小學,是族人自力採集當地石頭,僅用少數外地來的建材蓋起來的。在此之前,部落的孩子們必須走9小時的路,才能到達新光國小。為了讓孩子不須離家住宿,在部落就可讀書,部落提出興建新光分校申請,2003年獲准,實現了部落裡有學校的目標。

 部落裡保有泰雅族的傳統穀倉,並持續使用中。為了防止水淹、老鼠偷糧食,泰雅穀倉的智慧是高架,並在接榫處以倒置的碗狀,阻止老鼠爬上去。穀倉裡堆放著小米,可以保存5年,不過這當中必須每2個月帶到陽光下曝曬。

部落遵照已逝頭目的指示,保留6個傳統小米品系,並以公田種植。這些小米各有不同的功用,搗麻糬、釀酒、當主食。 分享部落保育成效

部落裡的Koraw自然生態公園,是將原來的獵場,劃出2/3,以保育豐富的森林物種,替代狩獵,成為動物樂園,不但適合白天健行,摸黑到生態公園夜觀也別有樂趣。穿梭在Koraw,微風徐徐,鳴禽走獸的聲音繚繞;夜晚走訪生態公園,在部落解說員導覽下,仔細觀察,尋找飛鼠的蹤跡,傾聽山羌的呼喚。

巨木群步道全長約5公里,適合花一整天的時間,邊走邊聽導覽,邊欣賞沿途的花草樹木,以及部落維護的成果;抵達巨木群後,拜訪這群在地球上屹立千年的天然好夥伴,聽聽部落發現巨木群的故事,中午則在巨木群陪伴下野餐;稍作休息之後,再原路走回部落。部落族人表示,行程最好安排上午8、9點出發,下午3、4點回到部落。

部落特別建議幾處沿途景點,夫妻樹(qhoniq Qegi)、瞭望台(R’kan)、觀景台(R’ra)、登山口、部落重要的民族植物竹林、族人的天然冰箱味道溪(gong Sknux)、遠眺塔克金溪到大霸尖山的碎石坡、又稱為「楓香之地」的休息亭,接著就來到旅人心中最期待的巨木群所在地了。

 司馬庫斯的早晚溫差大,雖然10月在台灣平地天氣仍炎熱,但司馬庫斯的夜晚卻須穿長袖衣物。經過一天勞務、勞頓,正適合大夥兒聚在一起,升起火來烤肉。大家圍著火堆,一邊分享著食物時,聽部落頭目說故事,貫穿古今300年來部落的歷史,說說部落的期許。

「分享」在部落是重要的文化,族人打獵的成果,切塊之後彼此傳遞,讓每個人都得到飽足。

維持部落簡樸生活的運轉

1991年巨木群的發現,連帶於1995年開通聯外道路,讓司馬庫斯地方產業嶄露曙光。巨木群以及部落的美景,很快吸引了愛好大自然的遊客,部落因此尋思、調整,期待發展能永續的生態旅遊。

部落青年每周都要巡巨木群步道幾回,清理垃圾、維護步道的清潔,這都是部落自發性行為。和其他台灣幾個部落一樣,這個環境就是自己的家,沒有人樂見自己的家髒亂;但矛盾的是,這些原住民保留地,原住民無法立下管理規則,只能眼睜睜看著遊客各憑喜好對待他們的家園。

部落採取共同經營的模式運作,每個月提供34位族人固定薪資,但是每個人幾乎都身兼數職。族人都因愛護家園的心情,而甘忍無止境的勞力付出。這個共同管理的部落,也照顧兒童,提供中餐,共同守護部落的孩子,讓族人在此生根茁壯。他們珍惜自己的土地,疼惜自己的孩子。

10月參加司馬庫斯生態旅遊,回程途中,中型巴士行經上次交通事故後,公路總局提撥經費增加紐澤西護欄工程處,赫然發現頭目以及部落族人也在其中。

七星基金會表示,部落對於縣政府在當地施作的工程,十分留意。過去曾發生過,外包工人到司馬庫斯趁工作之餘,打獵盜採檜木,部落為此也向縣府舉發;這次部落經過輾轉承包已經是3包,利潤極其微薄,只為確保工程品質。這項工程尚缺小山貓,七星基金會打算協助籌募款項。

這趟旅行就在族人們頻頻揮手祝福下,一路下山回到家中。帶著從部落得到的感動,守護山林的心意油然而生。

什麼是生態旅遊?

生態旅遊,單純就字面意義可解釋為一種觀察動植物生態、自然環境的旅遊方式,也可詮釋為具有生態觀念、增進生態保育的遊憩行為。然而,這個名詞涵蓋了廣泛且模糊的概念,容易導致大眾的誤解,甚至刻意被扭曲。

國際生態旅遊協會(The Ecotourism Society)及世界保育聯盟(IUCN)的大力推動下,明確的將生態旅遊定義為:「生態旅遊是一種負責任的旅遊,顧及環境保育,並維護地方住民的福利」。

行政院永續發展委員會在綜合了國內、外學者的意見後,於2003年底提出的「生態旅遊白皮書」中進一步定義生態旅遊為:「一種在自然地區所進行的旅遊形式,強調生態保育的觀念,並以永續發展為最終目標」。

「生態旅遊白皮書」中提出了生態旅遊辨別的8項原則,試著回答下列問題,若有任何一項的答案是否定的,就不是生態旅遊了!

( )1.必須採用低環境衝擊之營宿與休閒活動方式 ( )2.必須限制到此區域之遊客量(不論是團體大小或參觀團體數目)( )3.必須支持當地的自然資源與人文保育工作 ( )4.必須儘量使用當地居民之服務與載具 ( )5.必須提供遊客以自然體驗為旅遊重點的遊程 ( )6.必須聘用瞭解當地自然文化之解說員 ( )7.必須確保野生動植物不被干擾、環境不被破壞 ( )8.必須尊重當地居民的傳統文化及生活隱私

(資料來源:玉山國家公園網站)

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